Oh Shit, The Anchor Blew on the Rope I was Ascending

After the accident avoidance, I was greeted by my blown anchor

I had a near accident in the Spring of 2020 while I was out developing my crag. I already had a fixed my static line in the Welcome to Nightvale area. However, I wanted to start working on a 30m crack I had found that looked pretty great in a new Desert Bluffs area next door.

I took a good amount of time to setup an anchor above the crack on a large chockstone with webbing. I was considerate, moving it at least one time to a better spot. With only one static rope I fixed my dynamic rope to this anchor…

A major part of route development involves jugging (ascending) fixed lines. When jugging, the dynamic stretch of a rope can generate a ‘sawing’ motion against any rigid outcroppings.

…queue foreboding music…

To read about what happened, read the full story over the MojaGear…