Charlotte Dome, South Face (5.8, 12p, 1,500ft) is a 100 Classic Climb of North America. It is a bit too long to car-car (12mi, 3,000 ft from Eastside), so my friend Kevin and I decided to do it in two days. I was super excited to experience this large, long, wilderness epic climb in my year back to climbing and it fully delivered an adventure.
Day 1: Hiking to Charlotte Bench
We arrived at the busy Onion Valley trailhead at 10am to a few remaining parking spaces and started up trail in a sweat toward Kearsarge Pass. The pass was beautiful with many people enjoying the view into Kings Canyon.
Passing a few lakes to our left we hiked a wonderful outcropping section towards Charlotte Lake which was itself busy with people.
Then taking a more bushy, very Westside feeling trail towards the bench beside Charlotte Dome which had flat, sandy campsites and a gushing stream downhill.
Charlotte Dome was visible in an intimidating 2,000ft profile and we spoke to one party just returning to camp describing someone’s epic the prior night and their own 7.5 hrs ascent in which they simul-climbed the first four pitches. We would have the climb to ourselves on Sunday.
Day 2: South Face + Hike Out
The next morning we woke up pre-dawn and started traversing to the dome’s slabs with an hour approach. The start was in a crop of trees and easy to find with the first tree anchor.
Some people simul the first four pitches of 5.6- but while easy, it wasn’t exactly no-fall terrain so we pitched them out in a couple hours. There was great featuring and a beautiful chimney section.
The Slot (P6) was pretty obvious given mountain project pictures on where to go. The Slot was listed as the crux pitch and it was troublesome mostly because of a grinding wedge of rock that you shouldn’t pull on getting in the way.
However, I found the P8 awkward 5.8 fisty pitch more challenging. We linked P6-7 with minimal rope drag and the dike you traverse was beautiful.
I was most worried about the 5.7 R 40′ runout section, but instead of smooth Yosemite slab, it was actually pretty featured with more gear than I expected. I’d say more PG13 and not as heads up as most dome runouts.
I was super excited for the unique Furrows pitch that went through some bushes, but while cool and 3D, it wasn’t the stellar thing I thought it would be. Easy climbing after this with decent route finding to the summit ridge.
The summit ridge was a bit exposed, but we felt good enough to unrope to the summit and then descend towards the North. Lots of cairns and we mostly descended in dirt to the skiers left of the slabs which could get steep.
Back at camp at 2:20pm we gobbled calories, re-watered (brought 2L each on climb) before hiking out the 12 hrs, 3,000 ft to the trailhead. It was a long hike, with heavy climbing gear after a long day. The switchbacks were a little too developed with long bends that made everything feel a lot longer than it needed to.
Finally back to the car at 8:50pm after 16 hours, just barely making it without having to turn headlamps on I just had a 5 hrs drive back to Reno.
Reflection
In summary, Charlotte is clearly a 100 Classic Climb. One of the most featured granite climbs I’ve done, in an amazing setting with high quality rock. I had a great partner who I enjoy, trust and respect in the mountains. Our last objective together was a car-car on Sun Ribbon Arete (2000 ft, 22 pitches, 5.10a). Kevin specifically can’t wait to get back out here with other friends.
Day 1: 8 hrs, 12mi, 3,000 gain
Day 2: Climb / hike out
- Approach: 1 hrs
- Climb: 7 hrs
- Descent: 1 hrs
- Hike out: 6 hrs
