El Bolsón is described as a hippy town and that is kind of true with a large artist market and many wood sculptures at the center and nearby Lago Puelo. That said, it is kinda a commercialized artistic center with large breweries and a fair number of tourists. However, I did have a great time there with my primary goal of visiting the ultra unique live wood sculpture exhibit of El Bosque Tallado on a mountain side. Along with some hiking / running of peaks and a popular blue river. The sculpture art installation was of a like I’ve not encountered outside of Burning Man which meaningfully incorporated the landscape.
El Bosque Tallado
Driving up a steep 3.5 mile, 2,000 ft dirt road to a trailhead used by paragliders to launch off the mountainside, this amazing artistic experience required an interesting amount of effort to visit. After a hot 1 mile, 1,000 ft hike up the trail (which extends to the Pilriquitron Refugio and summit) I reached the welcome structure. I forgot there was a donation entrance fee and didn’t bring money, but the kind staff generously offered admission after I expressed my sole intention of artistic appreciation.
There are over 40 works of art here varying from abstract carvings to bodies extending out of the dirt or figures transitioning from an original tree structure to their carved aspects. Not only were the sculptures very cool, but the plaques for them were carved and painted beautifully as well. I spent probably an hour looking at everything and taking them in.
I was feeling great, excited by all the rock around and enjoying the cooler weather at higher elevation (it was a heat wave) so I continued up to the Refugio… then a lookout… then quested off trail up the ridgeline towards the Pilriquitron summit… I didn’t bring the water or fuel for this, but I made great time so did some light scrambling and reached the summit for great views of the surrounding valley and Patagonian mountains. Feeling super fit and engaged, I proceeded to see how fast I could loose all this elevation and descended 1,500 ft in 10 minutes, but clipped a rock with my foot at high speed… lightly breaking my little toe. Sometimes, we are our own worst enemy. 😂
The Río Azul Canyon / Pools
The other draw to Bolsón for me was the Blue River which had pictures of beautiful pools. Fitted in my running attire and poles, I fast-hobbled my way up the trail after my own radiology guesses determined no major bone break in an x-ray the day before. The trail itself was very dusty and exposed for most of it and very busy with dozens of “not well equipped” trekkers hauling overnight gear for one of the four Refugios along the river. The pools themselves were nearby Cañon Río Azul Refugio (-41.85342, -71.62272) 5 miles, 1,500 ft up the trail. It wasn’t really my vibe given there were a good number of people there interested in sunbathing and jump into the freezing water.
The real gem for me was hiking up along the cliffs of the steep river canyon for the next half mile and peering into the gorge. There was almost nobody past these pools and the canyon looked incredible. If I had a foot that could handle impact and a life vest it would be a great float to experience the canyon proper as the trail was high up. There was an informal guided trip to canyoning this section I wasn’t able to connect on, but it wasn’t clear that ropes or technical skills would really be necessary. Icing my foot in the frigid waters at the canyon mouth did wonders for my recovery.
Lago Puelo
While not on my list, this town was way quieter and had a ‘main road’ with a bunch of sculptures. The lake and its beaches were very busy, but had amazing views and like other beaches in this region, had no music or trash so felt very nice regardless.
