When my friends showed me the spires ringing the cirque outside the Frey Refugio, I was an immediate yes to join them on their trip down to Argentina, centering on Bariloche. This isn’t the High Andes, but it’s definitely the Andes, Patagonia and alpine. The prominence here makes 7,500-8,500 ft summits provide a great view from a valley floor around 2,500 ft. It was a great zone to climb interesting spires, get on top of the highest thing around and stumble our way through a mix of information for a memorable keystone to the Central Patagonia trip. You can read my climbing trip here, but this post is about the logistics part which I found difficult to get a full picture abroad before the trip and only slightly better locally.
Refugio Frey Lodging
You can get some basic information about lodging / services for the Refugio Frey on the website. However, I got most my detailed information pre-trip after sending an email via an auto-responding email response with a lot more information. Still, there was a lot we didn’t know when heading up to the Frey. So, this is my FAQ from the experience
How can you get there?
Either by taking the ski lift up (not always running) and hiking the ridgeline traversing / down to the lodge (looked maybe gnarly?) or by hiking up (~6mi, +3,000’/-900′) from the Cerro Cathedral / Villa Cathedral ski area (huge ski lot, free parking).
What is the hike up like?
It starts out pretty sun exposed but after rounding the ridge and heading up alongside the Arroyo Van Titter you can refill water from the stream and there is a canopy for most of the way up until the last hot 500 ft or so. It took our moderate paced group 4/5 hours up with the heavy pack and ~3 hrs down.
Note: You are required to register for this (and most hikes in the national parks), but nobody was checking.
What weather should I plan for?
It’s Patagonia, so expect wind (however, it was low-wind while we were there). I was expecting it to be cold-ish because it looked alpine but we were there in a heat wave (early Jan) with temps 10-15 degrees cooler (allegedly) than Bariloche (90 degrees during heat wave). I never needed my puffy and barely needed my sleeping bag at night with sun from 5:30am-10:30pm. However, I did need layering for cool winds on summits.
What is the sanitation situation?
You must bring your own toilet paper (although they will dispose of it there). With ~30 spots in the lodge and ~40 reservable camping spots, there is a decent line in the morning. However, the four bathroom stalls with two sinks were well cleaned (if a little wet on the floor from loose plumbing).
Note: there is no soap provided at sinks, bring some.
What is the water situation?
There is ample water from the sinks. Like in Bariloche, they say it’s okay to drink directly. You are not supposed to swim in the lake by the Refugio where you’d assume it’s coming from, but a ton of people do anyways (the staff basically said it was impossible to enforce). In conversation, it was said they add chloride to the water. So, no showers, but plenty of water to drink. They are fine with you washing up (no soap) in the river.
Should I camp or stay in the lodge?
It was pretty expensive to rent the tent, sleeping pad, sleeping bag from Bariloche ($19 USD pp / day from Patagonia Showroom), however, I highly recommend camping vs. the lodge. The lodge offers no privacy to change (other than the bathroom stalls outside with often wet floor) and the sleeping situation is end-end mattresses lining two long bunks across the wall. The top bunk was so oppressively hot that all of us camped the rest of our time and couldn’t last one full night in the lodge. Also, the length of the three foot wide mattresses was 6′ at the window and more like 5.5′ in the center (where I was) so I had to try to sleep impossibly crunched up the first night. From the heat or body position or non-level platform, I woke up halfway through the night with a killer headache.
For all these reasons, it’s much better to camp. Yes, with all the climbing gear and heavy rented gear for a party of two my backpack was 60 lbs (others were 40-50 lbs), but it was so much more enjoyable. There is a hill up the ridge from the Refugio with a couple dozen pads with partial walls of stacked stone for wind protection. The pads are the size of one 2-4 person tent and typically pretty flat. It is not well monitored to make sure everyone is registered (camping is free but limited), but often pretty full. Everything is first come first serve.
What is the food situation at the Refugio?
From 1-5pm you can order stuff like empanadas ($5 USD) or pizza ($25 USD). Dinner cost ~$20 per night and must be ordered every day before 6pm to be served 7:30-9pm. “Full dinner” was +$6 USD for soup, + $6 USD for dessert. Dinners were often pasta/rice with a meat bolongese, soup was some squash base and desert varied (Ex: brownie + ice cream, peach + dulce, a square of cake). Ordering a beer ($6 USD) at the end of the day can be really nice. You can order breakfast and a take-away lunch for the day, but breakfast is at 8am and more like cereal, not hot food. The menu and prices for 2025 can be found here. It is cash-only up at the Refugio, but I listed USD because the Argentinian Peso exchange rate / prices have varied quite a bit over the years.
The interior dinning area is 3, 6′ long tables with two more in a covered “salon” outside. There are 4/5 tables just outside the refugio for community use, they are almost always full of people cooking off their own stoves in the evening.
What is the vibe?
There are a lot of people who come up to the Frey every day (est. 500 ppl.). Some are day hikers, some hiking the refugio circuit and overnighting, some big trekking groups and a lot of overnighting climbers (~25+?). This is the only place I heard English regularly on my two week stay in Bariloche. There is a mix of foreign / Argentinian climbers, people up for two weeks dirtbagging and people up for a few days (like us). It was pretty friendly and festive at sundown, but not loud. Most people get up pretty late for the alpine (9-10am) given its South America and the long days.
How can I reserve my stay?
Unless you have 8+ people you cannot reserve in advance and have to wait for seven days before. (Also, if you try to email they say there is no cell or email and they get it those emails, when they get to them.) Given this small seven day window, we were surprised that reservations could ‘reach capacity’ on the same day the reservation opens. You’ll probably be up because its light so late, so just reserve your stays after midnight if you have inflexible timing.
While you can only reserve one day at a time on the website, it seemed like you could communicate multiple days of camping at the refugio when registering (some people expressed 1-2 weeks for example) since once you are up there, you don’t have service to use a website. Longer reservations were a little fuzzy, but staff were generally chill. One note is the camping filled up faster than the lodging.
Note: If you stay in the lodge, it is half up-front on reservation and make sure to bring the other half in cash for the refugio at check in.
Is there electricity?
There are some open-access plugs (4-5) infrequently used inside the refugio people would plug into.
What is the climbing like?
Read my other blog post for all the climbing details from our trip.
Wow, long enough FAQ? Hopefully this helps you answer the questions my group had trying to plan our trip up to Frey!
Translated auto-response email (Jan 2025)
Hello hikers!
This is an automated response, as we have NO phone signal or WiFi at the Refugio. We hope this email answers all your questions; if not, please send your questions with the subject line: NEW INQUIRY, and we will respond to your email as soon as possible.
Refugio Frey is located in Nahuel Huapi National Park. Trekking registration is mandatory on the Nahuel Huapi National Park website. The following link is the park’s website where you will find all the necessary information about trekking in the area: www.nahuelhuapi.gov.ar. Please remember that since it is a National Park, making FIRES and bringing PETS is PROHIBITED.
IMPORTANT FOR FOREIGN VISITORS: For your payment to be processed through the website, you must enter an 8-digit ID.
RESERVE YOUR SPOT:
Refugio Frey is open all year round and operates with a reservation system through the website, only for overnight stays and camping (reservations are not necessary for day trips). YOU CAN ONLY RESERVE FOR THE NEXT 7 DAYS ON THE CALENDAR. If you are a group of 8 people or more and wish to secure your reservation further in advance, up to a maximum of 20 days, you can do so via bank transfer. To finalize this reservation, please reply to this email thread requesting the corresponding bank details. BOOKING THE HALF-BOARD SERVICE IS MANDATORY FOR RESERVATIONS MADE FURTHER IN ADVANCE.
Please note that at Refugio Frey we only accept cash payments.
Camping reservations are per tent. For overnight stays in the refuge, the reservation includes up to 5 people. If you are writing on behalf of an organized group, please send your inquiry.
TRAIL CONDITIONS:
The trail is very well marked.
Under regular summer conditions, the hike is estimated to take 4 hours. However, even in summer, the demands and dangers of the mountain should not be underestimated: the remoteness from medical centers, the lack of telephone service, exposure to harsh weather conditions, etc. Therefore, it is essential to wear appropriate sportswear, good footwear, carry a backpack with extra layers of clothing, water, a hat, sunglasses, sunscreen, gloves, and a packed lunch. At any time of year, it can snow, and storms are particularly dangerous; therefore, we recommend checking the forecast beforehand and only ascending if the weather conditions are favorable.
From April to the end of November, the ascent to the refuge becomes more difficult and dangerous. Snowstorms, strong winds, and sudden temperature changes are common.
During the winter, access is usually only possible using snowshoes or cross-country skis. In this case, the climb can take more than 6 hours. Significant experience, appropriate clothing, and avalanche safety equipment (transceiver, shovel, and probe) are required.
Check the trail conditions and forecast the day before, never go alone, and always inform someone of your planned route.
To access the “Frey via the ridge,” it is always recommended to use the ski resort’s lifts. Check conditions. For greater safety, it is recommended to hire professional mountain guides authorized by the Nahuel Huapi National Park.
Horses and bicycles are not allowed on the trail.
ALL RATES ARE UPDATED ON OUR WEBSITE.
Overnight stay: the dormitory is communal and has shared bunk beds. Sleeping bags can be rented; request them upon arrival at the refuge.
DINNER: it is not necessary to reserve meals in advance, but you must notify us before 6 PM so that we can prepare your dinner. This is important when planning your ascent.
Camping and use of the restrooms are free. Voluntary contributions for cleaning and maintenance are appreciated. We do not offer kitchen facilities in any of the accommodations. Those who wish to cook must bring their own stove and cooking utensils. It is possible to eat inside the refuge or the annex.
There are toilets, but no showers. We ask that you take care of them and keep them clean, bearing in mind that: NO PAPER SHOULD BE THROWN IN THE TOILET; ONLY PAPER SHOULD BE THROWN IN THE WASTE BIN, as we burn it. DIAPERS, WIPES, AND OTHER WASTE MUST BE TAKEN WITH YOU TO BARILOCHE. Approximately 500 people pass through the refuge daily, so without your cooperation, it is impossible for us to maintain the bathrooms in good condition.
At the refuge, we offer a wide variety of homemade food for lunch between 1 PM and 6 PM, and a daily dinner menu with vegetarian and gluten-free options. We also have a small shop with cold drinks, coffee, and treats to share.
CONSERVATION POLICIES:
At the refuge, we believe that for mountain tourism to remain sustainable, we all must contribute with environmental awareness. Therefore, we share the following criteria and guidelines:
We must not throw away…
Original Spanish Email
¡Hola caminantes!
Esta es una respuesta automática, ya que en el Refugio NO tenemos SEÑAL de teléfono ni WiFi. Esperamos que este correo responda a todas sus preguntas, de no ser así por favor envía tus preguntas con asunto: NUEVA CONSULTA y responderemos el e-mail a la brevedad.
El Refugio Frey se encuentra en el Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi. Es obligatorio hacer el registro de trekking en la página de P.N. Nahuel Huapi. El siguiente link es la página web del parque y allí encontrarán toda la información necesaria sobre trekking de la zona: www.nahuelhuapi.gov.ar Recordamos que al ser un Parque Nacional está PROHIBIDO hacer FUEGO y transitar con MASCOTAS.
IMPORTANTE EXTRANJEROS: Para que tu pago se acredite desde la web tenes que ingresar un ID de 8 dígitos
RESERVÁ TU LUGAR:
El Refugio Frey está abierto durante todo el año y funciona con sistema de reservas por la página web, únicamente para el pernocte y acampe (no hace falta reservar si van por el día). EN EL CALENDARIO SOLO PODRÁS RESERVAR PARA LOS PRÓXIMOS 7 DÍAS. Si son un grupo de 8 personas o más y desean asegurar su reserva con mayor anticipación, hasta un máximo de 20 días, pueden hacerlo mediante una transferencia bancaria. Para concretar esta reserva, les pedimos que respondan a esta misma cadena de mails solicitando los datos bancarios correspondientes, ES EXCLUYENTE PARA RESERVAR CON MAYOR ANTICIPACIÓN CONTRATAR EL SERVICIO DE ½ PENSIÓN.
Les informamos que en el Refugio Frey solo aceptamos pagos en efectivo
La reserva para el acampe es por carpa. Para pernoctar en el refugio, la reserva incluye hasta 5 personas. Si escriben por grupos organizados enviar su consulta.
ESTADO DE LA SENDA:
La senda está muy bien marcada.
En condiciones estivales regulares se calculan 4 horas de caminata. Sin embargo, incluso en verano, no se debe subestimar la exigencia ni los peligros que la montaña conlleva: la lejanía de los centros médicos, la falta de servicio de telefonía, la exposición a las condiciones climáticas, etc. Por ello, es fundamental utilizar ropa deportiva adecuada, buen calzado, mochila con abrigo extra, agua, gorra, lentes de sol, protector solar, guantes y una vianda. En cualquier momento del año, puede nevar y las tormentas son momentos particularmente peligrosos; por ello, recomendamos chequear el pronóstico previamente y sólo ascender si las condiciones climáticas son favorables.
A partir de abril y hasta finales de noviembre, el ascenso al refugio se vuelve más dificultoso y peligroso. Es frecuente tener tormentas de nieve, fuertes vientos y cambios bruscos de temperatura.
Durante el invierno, es normal que el acceso sea únicamente posible utilizando raquetas o esquís de travesía. En tal caso hay que calcular que la subida puede durar más de 6 horas. Se requiere de mucha experiencia, indumentaria adecuada y equipo de seguridad para avalanchas (DVA, pala y sonda).
Consultar el estado de la senda y pronóstico el día previo, nunca ir solo y siempre dejar dicho el recorrido que se va a hacer.
Para acceder al “Frey por el filo” es siempre recomendable tomar los medios de elevación del centro de esquí. Consultar condiciones. Para mayor seguridad se recomienda contratar guías profesionales de montaña habilitados por el P.N. Nahuel Huapi.
No se permite el tránsito de caballos ni de bicicletas por la senda.
TODAS LAS TARIFAS SE ENCUENTRAN ACTUALIZADAS EN NUESTRA WEB.
Pernocte: el dormitorio es comunitario y cuenta con cuchetas compartidas. Se pueden alquilar sacos de dormir, se solicitan una vez que están en el refugio.
CENA: no es necesario reservar la comida con anticipación, pero si se debe avisar antes de las 18 hrs para poder así preparar su cena. Esto es importante a la hora de planificar su subida.
El acampe y uso de baños es gratuito. Se agradecen los aportes voluntarios para su limpieza y mantenimiento.
No disponemos del servicio de uso de cocina en ninguno de los casos. Quienes quieran cocinar, deben llevar su propio calentador y utensilios de cocina. Sí es posible, comer dentro del refugio o del anexo.
Baños, no hay duchas, les pedimos que los cuiden y mantengan limpios, teniendo en cuenta que: NO SE PUEDEN ARROJAR PAPELES AL INODORO, SOLO SE PUEDEN ARROJAR PAPELES AL CESTO ya que los quemamos, PAÑALES, TOALLITAS Y OTROS DESECHOS BAJAN CON USTEDES A BARILOCHE. Hay un tránsito de aproximadamente 500 personas por días en el refugio, por lo que sin su colaboración nos es imposible mantener los baños en condiciones.
En el refugio contamos con una gran variedad de comida casera para comer entre las 13hrs y las 18hrs y un menú diario para la noche con opciones vegetarianas y celíacas. Así como un pequeño kiosco con bebidas frescas, cafetería y cosas ricas para compartir.
POLÍTICAS DE CONSERVACIÓN:
Desde el refugio creemos que para que el turismo de montaña siga siendo sustentable todos tenemos que ayudar desde la conciencia medioambiental. Por ello les compartimos los siguientes criterios y pautas:
No debemos arrojar ningún tipo de basura en la senda.
Recomendamos alejarnos al menos 20 mts de la senda y 50 mts de cursos de agua para orinar y defecar (es importante llevar una palita para poder enterrar las heces). Los papeles y toallitas deben guardarse en una bolsa plástica y bajar con c/u.
¡Está prohibido hacer fuego en cualquier parte del parque!
La basura que ustedes generen bajara a Bariloche con ustedes. Esto nos ayuda a cuidar el lugar y hacer que todos seamos un poco más conscientes del impacto que nuestro consumo genera en el planeta. Planifiquen bien su alimentación para generar el menor desecho posible.
El uso de parlantes en la senda no está permitido, el uso de los mismos ahuyenta a la fauna local y genera disturbios con otros caminantes.
El uso de drones no está permitido, ya que molesta a las aves y a la gente que sube a la montaña a disfrutar de la tranquilidad.
El refugio Frey no es un hotel, es un refugio al servicio del caminante. Quienes quieran subir deben saber que el respeto y la paciencia son valores fundamentales para una convivencia en armonía.
Link útiles
El Refugio www.refugiofreybariloche.com
Registro de trekking www.nahuelhuapi.gov.ar
Pronóstico meteorológico www.windguru.cz/100133
Boletín de avalanchas www.avalanchas.com.ar
¡MUCHAS GRACIAS!
¡NOS VEMOS ARRIBA!
Equipo Refugio Frey
