It. Has. Stopped. Raining!!! For nearly the first weekend since December, it was no longer raining in California so we could get out and climb. It is very snowy in Yosemite Valley, but Down Canyon is warm and mostly dry. Time for some awful off-width and super slacker knobs.
The Wide Warm Up
Reed’s Pinnacle area has a ton of wide stuff (Chingando, Reed’s Direct, Reed’s Left) in addition to some awesome fingers (Lunatic Fringe, Stone Groove). Given
The first pitch was
The last pitch was a PG-protected chimney to a super hard 10a off-width. The walls were not super featured for upward mobility and I had to aid through the hard ow section. I took one fall where my #5 popped.
The rest of the day we tried to get up Independence Pinnacle, Center but found a mossy mess that I wasn’t feeling. Also, Flatus which I would have preferred at least three wide cams to zip up for a
Finally, we reached success for a super enjoyable romp up Stone Fist splitter.
You Lead, You Bleed, Hopefully You Don’t Get a Head Injury
Another adventure this day was walking past Stone Groove and seeing a
Super Slacker By-way
On Sunday, we
The. Climb. Was. Amazing. My partner Lukas said the middle 10a pitch was the best pitch he has climbed in Yosemite. Almost every pitch was interesting and enjoyable. It was the most modern bolted climb in Yosemite I’ve been on. Just enough bolts to protect people, but none where there are trad placements. Cruxes are just off belay and bolt protected.
It took me several attempts to get through the 10 b/c sport moves, but we made it all the way to the top! After getting shut down Saturday, this was an amazing accomplishment that we were super proud of. It was